Estate Jewelry consists of pieces that are pre-owned, which can range from antique to or something recently purchased. The most available estate jewelry that we have in the U.S. typically dates as far back as the middle of the 19th century. Many people tend to lean towards estate jewelry to tap into that sentiment of nostalgia. Reminders of the past and associating pieces with a time that felt more stable can often bring people comfort, and what better way to do so than with beautiful luxury jewelry. 

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Let’s go through the different eras:

Mid & Late Victorian Period (1850-1890)

This time period saw Great Britain rise in prominence as a jewelry hub due to the influence of the Industrial Revolution and the reign of Queen Victoria. Mining precious metals and gemstones was much more accessible with the rise of machinery, which led to the mass production and increased trading of jewelry amongst the middle class. During Queen Victoria’s romantic marriage with Prince Albert, society saw the rise in popularity of seed pearls, shell cameos, and strands of pearls, as well as gemstones such as: garnet, amethyst, and topaz. After the death of Prince Albert in 1861, however, materials such as black onyx, tortoise shell, and heavy goldwork were used more to reflect the Queen’s grief.

Edwardian Period (1901-1914)

During this period, “Elegance” became a main theme as ladies under the reign of Queen Victoria’s son, Edward VII, came to appreciate the finer things in life. Edwardian ladies often donned themselves in laces, silks, and feathers, which they accessorized with diamonds and pearls, along with a multitude of colorful gemstones. Platinum also became more commonplace than gold, due to its strength, and metals were fashioned into delicate filigree resembling fine lace.

Art Nouveau (1890-1915)

In the late 19th century, Art Nouveau spread across Europe and America as a strong movement in the decorative arts. In art and jewelry alike, this movement was characterized by romantic, light-hearted, and ethereal figures and patterns. Society embraced dreamlike expression by highlighting nature, wings, feathers, and florals while using iridescent colors. In terms of jewelry, pearls and diamonds were still popular but were integrated into more dainty styles. The jewelry stylings of René Lalique, which was popularized during this time, incorporated ivory, horn, carved glass, enamel, and gemstones like opals and moonstones. Similarly, Louis Comfort Tiffany was an American artist and designer who produced many delicate designs and exquisite enameling. He was most well-known for his beautiful work in stained-glass lamps and windows and actually the son of Charles Lewis Tiffany, who founded NYC’s Tiffany & Co., and was the famous jewelry brand’s first design director.

Art Deco (1920-1935)

During this time period, jewelry stylings became more brash and sophisticated to fit the fashion standards that were set in France and spread to America. This was largely influenced by the fact that women started working in male dominated professions, as a result of men going off to fight in World War I. Women were more confident in their artistic expression, often embracing the more flamboyant and geometric styles of the Art Deco period. Jewelry of this time incorporated more bold and bright colors by featuring gemstones such as rubies, coral, lapis lazuli, and jade. Enameled pieces were also more streamlined and had an enhanced angular look to match the fashion of the time.

Retro Period (1935-1949)

In order to fund World War II, jewelry production in Europe actually came to a halt, which led to a scarcity of platinum, gold, and silver luxury pieces. This opened up more opportunity for the bold, flamboyant, and romantic Hollywood stylings that characterized American jewelry to enter the scene. Often worn and popularized by Hollywood stars, American jewelry often used rose, green, and/or yellow gold to feature oversized gemstones. It wasn’t until after the war, typically associated with trends of the 1950s, that jewelry styles softened and focused more on goldsmithing (specifically yellow gold), which featured brooches that had simple circle pins and more elaborate patterns inspired by nature, such as animals and flowers. 

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Interestingly enough, the late 1950s is when Jeanne Miller, the originator of the Miller family interest in the jewelry and watch industry, began to collect estate jewelry, watches and antiques to sell through her business “Miller Antiques,” founded in 1956. To learn more about Jeanne Miller’s Collection and legacy, visit our page: https://brentmiller.com/pages/jeanne-miller. 

What time period brings you the most nostalgia? Which estate pieces would you likely wear?